Tallinn Christmas Market

The organizer opens the market at 18:00 on Friday 20 November, when the head of the city centre district says a few words and the lights go on in the tree. Advent gets its own moment on Sunday 29 November. That afternoon the mayor of Tallinn and the dean of the cathedral light the Advent candle over Christmas songs, and Santa opens his little house for children every day from 12:00 to 18:00. A child who can recite a Christmas verse leaves with a sweet, and the old carousels stand nearby for the smallest visitors.

Glögg leads the drinks list, with dozens of kinds served hot with or without alcohol. Try the cranberry and cherry glögg, or the raspberry and blackcurrant one from Setomaa in the southeast, and there is a spiced wine made to a medieval recipe for anyone who wants the old taste. Cooks on the square make Estonian Christmas staples such as sauerkraut and blood sausage, and elk sausage or duck confit if you want a richer plate. The Sweet House bakes cinnamon and cardamom buns fresh through the day.

This year the organizer says it has given more room to local artists and craftspeople. Look for candles in odd shapes, socks knitted from dog and alpaca wool, and the Estonian sweaters and hats that have become the market's classics.