Trdelnik
SweetNov to Dec
Trdelník suits anyone at Prague's Old Town Square market who wants a warm sweet straight off the fire, and the trade-off is that the label old Bohemian on the stall sign is marketing. Its roots run to Slovakia, Moravia and Transylvania, and the only EU-protected version is baked in Skalica in Slovakia.
The name
trdlo
From trdlo, the wooden roller the dough is wound on. In Czech the word also means a simpleton.
slavic
SourceTrdelník is a strip of yeast dough wound around a wooden or metal roller 8 to 10 cm across, called a trdlo, and turned over charcoal while it's brushed with milk. When it's golden it slides off the roller as a hollow tube and gets rolled in sugar, cinnamon, vanilla or chopped nuts. The word trdlo names the roller, and in Czech it also means a simpleton.
Sources disagree about where it began. English Wikipedia places its origin in the northern part of the old Kingdom of Hungary, and Czech Wikipedia thinks it probably came from Transylvania. Both agree on its later homes: Slovakia and Moravia, where 19th-century weddings and fairs served it. Czech writers mention trdelník from 1813, in poems published in Múza Morawská.
The traditional Czech claim is the contested part. Prague stalls sell it as a traditional Czech cake or an old Bohemian pastry, and English Wikipedia says the literature mostly calls it a Slovak or Moravian dish and dates its spread in Prague to the early 2000s. The journalist Janek Rubeš has criticised the stalls as tourist traps that present it as traditional, and Czech Wikipedia calls the label staročeský trdelník, old Czech trdelník, a marketing trick.
The Slovak town of Skalica holds the EU's protected name for its version, Skalický trdelník, registered in 2007. Local tradition credits the Transylvanian cook of Count József Gvadányi, who lived in the town from 1783 to 1801, with bringing the recipe. The town runs its own bakery for it in the Franciscan monastery and holds a Trdlofest every May.
Worth knowing
- Skip anything labelled old Bohemian if that's the reason you're buying it; the cake's roots are Slovak, Moravian and Transylvanian.
- Order the plain sugar-and-nut version first, and add fillings only if you want dessert.
Quick answers about Trdelnik
Is trdelník a traditional Czech pastry?
Its Czech roots are in Moravia, and Prague came to it late. Sources trace trdelník to Slovakia, Moravia and Transylvania, and it spread in Prague only from the early 2000s. Czech Wikipedia calls the label old Czech trdelník a marketing trick.
Is trdelník protected by the EU?
Only one version has EU protection. Skalický trdelník, baked in the Skalica district of Slovakia, has been an EU protected geographical indication since 2007, and the name covers no trdelník baked in Prague.
What is the difference between trdelník and kürtőskalács?
They belong to the same family of spit cakes. Kürtőskalács is rolled in sugar before baking so it gets a caramel glaze, and Skalický trdelník and the Czech-Moravian trdelník have no caramel glaze.
How do you order Trdelnik?
Order it plain, rolled in sugar with nuts or cinnamon, if you want the old style. The versions filled with ice cream came to Prague only after about 2015.
When is Trdelnik in season?
Trdelnik: All year at Prague's tourist stalls, and on the Christmas markets from late November.