Lithuania
Lietuva1 region
Lithuania suits a visitor who wants to see Christmas Eve kept as a family feast, with the twelve-dish Kūčios supper at its heart. Vilnius puts the city's tallest tree and outdoor nativity scenes on Cathedral Square, and the capital is the one base this site covers. Christmas Eve and both days of Christmas are public holidays, so book a restaurant for the 24th early or plan a quiet night in.
How Lithuania keeps Christmas
- Kalėdų SenelisKalėdų Senelis (Grandfather Christmas) flies in by reindeer sleigh on the evening of Kūčios and hands out presents to good children. In the older custom people dressed as Kalėda walked from yard to yard on Christmas Day to wish for a good harvest, and in the Šilutė district a hare brings the gifts.
Kūčios on 24 December is the family supper of the year, and relatives travel long distances to be at the table. An empty place is laid for anyone who died that year or could not come. The meal has twelve dishes and no meat or dairy: herring in tomato, mushroom or onion sauce, smoked eel, potatoes, cranberry kisielius, sauerkraut, mushrooms and bread with honey. Kūčiukai (small hard biscuits) are eaten with poppy-seed milk, and ethnologists read them as an old ritual bread for the souls of the dead.
Hay goes under the tablecloth to recall the manger, with fir boughs and candles on top. Supper once began when the first star appeared and now usually starts between 18:00 and 19:00. Some families draw straws from under the tablecloth to read the year ahead. The food stays on the table overnight for the spirits of the departed while the family goes out to the Shepherds' Mass at midnight, which is worship first.
Christmas Day is left for celebrating, and Christmas Eve and both days of Christmas are public holidays. In Vilnius the city's tallest Christmas tree goes up on Cathedral Square, with outdoor nativity scenes around it, and the square hosts the city's public New Year's Eve celebration.
Quick answers about Lithuania
What are the twelve dishes of Kūčios?
The Christmas Eve supper has twelve dishes with no meat or dairy. Expect herring in several sauces, smoked eel, potatoes, sauerkraut, mushrooms, cranberry kisielius and kūčiukai (small biscuits) soaked in poppy-seed milk.
Is Christmas Eve a public holiday in Lithuania?
Yes. Kūčios on 24 December is an official day off, and so are 25 and 26 December. Families spend the evening at home, so book any restaurant meal well ahead.
Who brings the presents in Lithuania?
In Lithuania, Kalėdų Senelis brings the presents. Kalėdų Senelis (Grandfather Christmas) flies in by reindeer sleigh on the evening of Kūčios and hands out presents to good children. In the older custom people dressed as Kalėda walked from yard to yard on Christmas Day to wish for a good harvest, and in the Šilutė district a hare brings the gifts.